Lipopeptide is a common name for Biopeptide EL, also known as palmitoyl hexapeptide-12. As the name suggests, this peptide is made of six amino acids and has a palmitic fatty acid addition. The inclusion of palmitic acid within the Lipopeptide structure is thought to enhance penetration to the deeper layers of various structures made of skin cells. The amino acids in the peptide are valine-glycine-valine-alanine-proline-glycine (VGVAPG), and the sequence is one of the most common found in naturally occurring proteins like elastin and its precursor, tropoelastin.

By mimicking fragments of elastin, the peptide is thought to interact with fibroblast cells and exert a potential impact on the production of vital proteins to the skin’s extracellular matrix (ECM). Fibroblasts are a subset of cells found in connective tissue, such as the one that provides support for skin cells. Fibroblasts can actively produce ECM proteins, and some of the most important proteins are considered to be collagen, elastin, and hyaluronic acid. According to scientific research, Lipopeptide may potentially enhance the creation and growth of collagen and hyaluronic acid within the ECM.

GHK is a copper peptide that occurs naturally in a copper complex of the tripeptide glycyl-L-histidyl-L-lysine. It has two variants — GHK with or without Cu. GHK appears to have a strong affinity for copper (II), and it is synthesized naturally from plasma, although it has been isolated in other areas. In cases of injury, GHK may be released from tissue cells. The copper peptide appears to affect genes that control injury and stress responses. Its functions appear to include the following: tissue remodeling, anti-inflammatory response, pain perception inhibition, nootropic action anti-cancer action, blood vessel growth, and nerve outgrowth. A decrease in the regenerative capacity of an organism may be traced to a decline in GHK-level. Its potential functions extend to infection control, follicle growth, collagen and elastin production increases, tissue repair, and glycosaminoglycan synthesis. Endogenous GHK production is considered to decline over time.

LL-37 is a Cathelicidin, a protein family of unique and diverse functions. These peptides, produced by macrophages and polymorphonuclear leukocytes (both types of white blood cells), have been suggested to exhibit bactericidal action. The entire group is classified as antimicrobial peptides (AMPs). The peptide, in particular, has been researched in relation to autoimmune disease, cancer, and wound recovery.^[1] For example, researchers note that “Corneal and conjunctival epithelia express LL-37 as part of mucosal innate immunity to protect against bacterial and viral ocular infections.”

Nonapeptide-1, also termed Melanostatine-5, is a peptide that may prevent the activation of pigment-producing cells in the skin called melanocytes. It appears to be one of the most potent inhibitors of a receptor found in these pigment-producing cells, called the melanocortin-1 receptor (MC1R). Researchers have explored a peptide library containing 31,360 structurally different compounds, and it appears that the most potent inhibitor identified was Met-Pro-D-Phe-Arg-D-Trp-Phe-Lys-Pro-Val-NH₂, aka Nonapeptide-1.^[1] Structural analysis has revealed that specific amino acids, such as D-Trp at position 5 and Phe at position 6, are considered crucial for their antagonistic potential. The presence of D-Phe at position 3 further underscores such potential. Research on animal models suggests that Nonapeptide-1 may inhibit the synthesis of melanin, bringing it to the forefront of research on conditions impacting skin pigmentation, such as melasma. Studies in animal models posit that Nonapeptide-1 may reduce the synthesis of melanin and potentially decrease pigmentation on a considerable scale.

Pal-AHK, also referred to as Palmitoyl Tripeptide-3, is a tripeptide with a fatty acid attachment. It consists of amino acid sequences (alanine-histidine-lysine) and appears to be attached to a Palmitoyl fatty acid molecule. The fatty-acid component of AHK makes it lipophilic (soluble in fat), which may increase the potential of the peptide for penetration and absorption by epidermal cells in experimental models while maintaining the same mechanisms of action as regular AHK. AHK appears to be a multifunctional copper-binding peptide that has been studied for its potential role in supporting cellular functions related to the kin’s extracellular matrix.

Research indicates that AHK-Cu may increase the proliferation and viability of dermal fibroblasts—the primary cells responsible for producing collagen and other essential proteins in the extracellular matrix (ECM).^[1] Moreover, the peptide appears to possess significant antioxidative potential compared to other tripeptides when investigated via chromatographic evaluations. This appears to be related to its potent metal-chelating properties.

Chonluten is also known as Tripeptide T-34 or EDG, due to its sequence (Glu-Asp-Gly). It is a cytogenetic complex consisting of short peptides that are suggested to normalize the mucous membrane cells of the lungs and the bronchial tube. It is a gene regulator associated with inflammation and antioxidant activity, and is considered to be involved in proliferation responses.^[1] It appears to function in animal test models as an anti-inflammatory in the lungs, normalizing the mucosal functions of the lungs in conditions like asthma and chronic obstructive pulmonary disease (COPD).